Homeowner Resources
Defensible Space Scorecard
5 min read
Wildfire Readiness
Defensible Space Scorecard
Walk your property with your phone and check what's true today. Three zones, about five minutes, and you'll know where your home stands before fire season peaks.
- Zone 0
- Zone 1
- Zone 2
- Score
Zone 0 · 0 to 5 feet from the structure
The Ember-Resistant Zone
The first 5 feet around your home decide whether a wind-blown ember finds fuel. CAL FIRE calls this the ember-resistant zone, and it carries 40% of your score.
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Embers collect where a fence meets the house, and a wood fence that touches the structure can carry flame straight to the wall. Fire professionals recommend a non-combustible section, such as aluminum or steel, for the last 5 feet.
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Bark and wood chips ignite easily from wind-blown embers. Gravel, pavers, or bare soil are the recommended ground covers in this band.
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Plants touching the wall give embers a place to catch right at the structure. Fire professionals recommend keeping this band clear.
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A firewood stack is dense fuel sitting against your wall. Moving it 30 feet out or more takes it out of ember range.
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Deck boards catch embers on the surface and in the gaps between boards. Non-combustible and fire-resistant materials shrink that risk at the structure itself.
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Fabric covers ignite quickly. Storing them in a garage or shed during fire season removes an easy fuel source.
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Dry leaves in a gutter are one of the most common ignition points on a home. Metal gutters with guards, or a regular cleaning habit, close that gap.
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Fine mesh at 1/8 inch or smaller keeps wind-driven embers out of attic and crawl spaces, where fires often start unseen.
Zone 1 · 5 to 30 feet from the structure
Lean, Clean, and Green
Fire professionals call this band "lean, clean, and green." Healthy, spaced, watered plantings slow a fire down before it gets near the house.
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Touching canopies let fire move tree to tree. Ten feet of spacing breaks that path.
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Dead material is the fastest-burning fuel on the property. Raking and removing it regularly matters more than any single project.
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Low branches let a ground fire climb into the canopy. Pruning to 6 feet removes the first rung.
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Many East Bay homeowners keep wood fencing in the yard and switch to aluminum or steel for the run that approaches the house. The fence stays beautiful; the last stretch stops carrying flame.
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Heat or flame near a tank is a serious hazard. Keep the ground around it clear of vegetation as well.
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Past the 30-foot line, a woodpile is far less likely to threaten the structure if it ignites.
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Green, watered plants resist ignition far better than dormant ones. Brown patches in this band are fuel.
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An unbroken line of shrubs or groundcover can carry fire from the outer property toward the house. Breaks in the planting stop the run.
Zone 2 · 30 to 100 feet from the structure
Reduce Fuel
From 30 to 100 feet, the goal is less fuel. A fire that crosses this band with little to feed on reaches Zone 1 much weaker.
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Short grass burns cooler and slower, and it gives fire crews defensible ground to work from.
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Gaps between plants, sideways and up and down, keep a fire from building intensity as it moves.
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A fire ladder is a connected path: grass to shrub to low branch to canopy. Removing any one rung breaks the ladder.
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Dead limbs ignite long before live wood. Remove them back to the trunk.
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A shed with fuel piled around it can ignite and threaten the main house. Outbuildings need their own clear space.
Your Results
Your Readiness Grade
How scoring works: Zone 0 counts for 40% of the total, Zone 1 for 35%, and Zone 2 for 25%.
Your lowest-scoring items are fencing and deck materials, which is the work a fire-safe fencing contractor handles. The Bay Area directory on this site lists installers who have done it.
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Copy this summary for your insurance agent, your realtor, or the family group chat.
This scorecard provides general guidance based on CAL FIRE defensible space recommendations. For an official assessment, contact your local fire department.
Rate Your Property’s Zone 0-2 Compliance
A defensible space scorecard walks your own property through the same three zones a CAL FIRE or local fire department inspector checks, one zone at a time, before anyone official shows up to look. Score yourself honestly on what sits within five feet of your house, what’s growing between five and thirty feet out, and what’s happening from there to your property line or the hundred-foot mark, and you’ll know exactly where a real inspection is likely to flag something.
This page explains what the scorecard checks and why, how the scoring works, and what to do once you have a number. If you want to start with your property’s fire hazard severity zone designation first, our fire hazard zone lookup tool checks that by address. Read on for what a low score in any one zone actually means and when it’s worth calling in a professional.
What a Defensible Space Assessment Actually Covers
A defensible space assessment isn’t a single yes-or-no question. It’s a walkthrough of the full hundred-foot buffer required under California’s Public Resources Code Section 4291 for properties inside a State Responsibility Area or a Very High Fire Hazard Severity Zone, broken into the three zones CAL FIRE and local fire agencies actually inspect against. An assessor, or a homeowner using this scorecard, checks combustible material against the house, plant spacing and dead growth in the middle distance, and fuel thinning out toward the property line. Each zone carries its own standard, so a property can pass comfortably in one zone and fail in another.
Zone 0, Zone 1, and Zone 2: What the Scorecard Rates
Zone 0 covers the five feet immediately around the house, including attached decks and stairs, and it carries the strictest standard of the three. The scorecard checks for wood mulch, stored firewood, propane tanks, combustible plants pressed against the siding, and any wood fence or gate butted directly against the structure. This is the zone most tied to the newer Zone Zero standard under AB 3074, and it’s where most points on a low-scoring property tend to disappear.
Zone 1 runs from five to thirty feet out, and the standard shifts from eliminating combustible material to breaking up what would otherwise let fire climb or spread. The scorecard rates canopy spacing between trees and shrubs, dead branches and dry leaf litter, mowed grass height, and how far tree limbs have been trimmed up from the ground, since low limbs are the ladder fuels that let a ground fire reach the canopy.
Zone 2 extends from thirty feet to the full hundred-foot boundary, or to your property line if it’s closer, and the scorecard shifts again toward thinning rather than clearing. Healthy, well-spaced vegetation can stay in place. Points come off for dead and downed material left in place and for vegetation dense enough that fire could move continuously from the ground into the canopy.
How Scoring Works: Critical Items vs. Nice-to-Have
Not every item on the scorecard carries the same weight, and treating all of them as equal is how homeowners talk themselves into a false sense of security. Combustible material inside Zone 0, a wood fence against the house, firewood stacked at the wall, mulch pressed into the siding, is scored as critical, because it addresses the exact mechanism, an ember landing on or against a structure, behind most home losses in a wildfire. A single critical failure in Zone 0 should pull your overall score down more than several minor items in Zone 2.
Zone 1 and Zone 2 items split between meaningful and nice-to-have. Ladder fuels and continuous canopy contact are scored close to critical, since they’re what let a ground fire become a structure fire. Grass height a few inches taller than ideal, or a handful of dead leaves that haven’t been raked yet, matter less and shouldn’t sink an otherwise solid score.
What to Do With Your Score
A high score across all three zones means your property is in good shape and ready for a real inspection whenever one is scheduled. Keep dated photos of each zone as your baseline, since conditions change every fire season and a photo record makes next year’s check faster.
A low score in Zone 0 is the one that deserves the fastest attention, since it’s both the strictest standard and the smallest, most affordable zone to fix. Clearing five feet of combustible material around a house is a weekend project for most homeowners, not a major renovation. A low Zone 1 or Zone 2 score usually points to ongoing maintenance, canopy spacing, dead-material removal, rather than a single fix, and can reasonably be worked through over a longer timeline.
Photograph each zone before you make any changes, then again after. If your local fire department ever asks for proof of the work, or your insurer asks what mitigation you’ve completed, a dated before-and-after photo says more than a description ever will.
When a DIY Scorecard Is Enough, and When to Call a Professional Inspector
This scorecard is built to match the same standard a CAL FIRE or local fire department inspector uses, but it isn’t a substitute for one. Use it as a first pass: catch the obvious Zone 0 problems, get a general read on Zone 1 and Zone 2, and fix what you can before anyone official is scheduled to look.
Call a professional inspector, or a fire-safe fencing contractor with real Zone Zero experience, when your score comes back low across more than one zone, when you’re not confident judging plant spacing or ladder fuels on a sloped or heavily wooded lot, or when you’re facing a compliance deadline tied to an insurance renewal. A trained eye catches details a homeowner walkthrough tends to miss, like which species on a property actually count as combustible under the local standard.
Turning Your Score Into Insurance Documentation
A completed scorecard, paired with dated photos, is exactly the kind of record insurers ask for when they’re weighing a policy renewal in a high fire hazard severity zone. It won’t guarantee a discount on its own, but it gives you something concrete to bring to that conversation instead of a verbal assurance that the yard looks fine. For the full picture of what defensible space compliance means under California law, see our defensible space guide, which covers each zone’s requirements, PRC 4291, and how CAL FIRE inspections actually work.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does a defensible space inspector actually check?
A defensible space inspector walks a property through the same three zones this scorecard covers: combustible material within five feet of the house, plant spacing and dead growth from five to thirty feet, and fuel thinning from thirty feet out to the property line or the hundred-foot mark. They document anything that doesn’t meet the standard and give the homeowner a written notice with a timeframe to fix it.
Can I do my own defensible space assessment without hiring anyone?
Yes, and it’s a reasonable place to start before scheduling anything official. Walk your property against the three zones, score them as objectively as you can, and treat any low-scoring zone as your punch list. Where a DIY pass falls short is trained judgment on borderline calls, like whether a specific plant species counts as combustible, or how a sloped, heavily wooded lot should be scored compared to a flat one. A low score in more than one zone is the cue to bring in someone qualified rather than keep re-scoring it yourself.
How often should I re-score my property?
At minimum once a year, before fire season, and again after any major landscaping change, storm damage, or fence replacement. Vegetation grows back, mulch gets replenished, and a property that scored well last spring can look different by late summer.